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| Greece | The strain and the gain The Daily Telegraph August 7, 2005 |
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| My first surprise came when I saw the timetable: the daily two-hour class started at 7.30am. The early start, it seemed, was to do with concentration - the mind is supposed to be less muddled first thing in the day. The usual time to begin is 6.30am, but Kristina had taken pity on her students and delayed the start. The second surprise was the class. Because this was Ashtanga, it involved two hours of continuous movement between postures, many of which were new to me, with a strong emphasis on a rhythmic breathing technique called ujjayi. When it was over, I was sweating profusely and exhausted - and so was everyone else. I spent the rest of the day recovering by the hotel pool, not at all certain that I liked this "boot camp" style of yoga. But the recovery time gave me a chance to get to know my fellow "campers". We were a mixed bunch, aged from about 26 to 52, with a fairly balanced ratio of men to women (subsequent yoga holidays have shown that there are often more women than men). Most of the group were holidaying alone and occupations were as varied as the age range. Our number included a doctor, a psychotherapist, a dancer and a drama teacher. There were a few so- called yoga nuts but most were yoga lightweights like me. It was a relief to discover that Kristina, who had been married to the late Derek Ireland, the man largely responsible for bringing Ashtanga yoga to the West, does not equate yoga with self-deprivation. The bedrooms are comfortable and air-conditioned, and although the menu is vegetarian, incorporating lots of fresh local produce, there is a non-vegetarian option for an extra charge. Coffee is freely available, and you can even have a glass of wine. There is only one class a day (although there is usually an optional afternoon class mid-week), which leaves plenty of time to explore the surrounding area. We visited many of the local towns and beaches as a group. The countryside is rather barren and rocky - not the sort you fall in love with immediately, perhaps - but slowly the peace and calm gets under your skin and seduces you into a slower pace of life. By the end of the week I'd started to get the hang of Ashtanga and was even enjoying the early start. In the following years I have returned to Mani several times, becoming a regular visitor to the yoga retreats. Kristina, a kind, strong and inspiring influence, has become as much a friend as a teacher. I'm now planning to go on a week-long retreat to Ustica, an island near Sicily, for a combined Ashtanga yoga and scuba-diving course. I suppose that means I am well on my way to becoming a fully-fledged yoga nut. | ||||
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